PART I At the little town of Vevey , in Switzerland , there is a particularly comfortable hotel . There are , indeed , many hotels , for the entertainment of tourists is the business of the place , which , as many travelers will remember , is seated upon the edge of a remarkably blue lake -- a lake that it behooves every tourist to visit . The shore of the lake presents an unbroken array of establishments of this order , of every category , from the “ grand hotel ” of the newest fashion , with a chalk-white front , a hundred balconies , and a dozen flags flying from its roof , to the little Swiss pension of an elder day , with its name inscribed in German-looking lettering upon a pink or yellow wall and an awkward summerhouse in the angle of the garden . One of the hotels at Vevey , however , is famous , even classical , being distinguished from many of its upstart neighbors by an air both of luxury and of maturity . In this region , in the month of June , American travelers are extremely numerous ; it may be said , indeed , that Vevey assumes at this period some of the characteristics of an American watering place . There are sights and sounds which evoke a vision , an echo , of Newport and Saratoga . There is a flitting hither and thither of “ stylish ” young girls , a rustling of muslin flounces , a rattle of dance music in the morning hours , a sound of high-pitched voices at all times . You receive an impression of these things at the excellent inn of the “ Trois Couronnes ” and are transported in fancy to the Ocean House or to Congress Hall . But at the “ Trois Couronnes , ” it must be added , there are other features that are much at variance with these suggestions : neat German waiters , who look like secretaries of legation ; Russian princesses sitting in the garden ; little Polish boys walking about held by the hand , with their governors ; a view of the sunny crest of the Dent du Midi and the picturesque towers of the Castle of Chillon . I hardly know whether it was the analogies or the differences that were uppermost in the mind of a young American , who , two or three years ago , sat in the garden of the “ Trois Couronnes , ” looking about him , rather idly , at some of the graceful objects I have mentioned . It was a beautiful summer morning , and in whatever fashion the young American looked at things , they must have seemed to him charming . He had come from Geneva the day before by the little steamer , to see his aunt , who was staying at the hotel -- Geneva having been for a long time his place of residence . But his aunt had a headache -- his aunt had almost always a headache -- and now she was shut up in her room , smelling camphor , so that he was at liberty to wander about . He was some seven-and-twenty years of age ; when his friends spoke of him , they usually said that he was at Geneva “ studying . ” When his enemies spoke of him , they said -- but , after all , he had no enemies ; he was an extremely amiable fellow , and universally liked . What I should say is , simply , that when certain persons spoke of him they affirmed that the reason of his spending so much time at Geneva was that he was extremely devoted to a lady who lived there -- a foreign lady -- a person older than himself . Very few Americans -- indeed , I think none -- had ever seen this lady , about whom there were some singular stories . But Winterbourne had an old attachment for the little metropolis of Calvinism ; he had been put to school there as a boy , and he had afterward gone to college there -- circumstances which had led to his forming a great many youthful friendships . Many of these he had kept , and they were a source of great satisfaction to him . After knocking at his aunt ’s door and learning that she was indisposed , he had taken a walk about the town , and then he had come in to his breakfast . He had now finished his breakfast ; but he was drinking a small cup of coffee , which had been served to him on a little table in the garden by one of the waiters who looked like an attache . At last he finished his coffee and lit a cigarette . Presently a small boy came walking along the path -- an urchin of nine or ten . The child , who was diminutive for his years , had an aged expression of countenance , a pale complexion , and sharp little features . He was dressed in knickerbockers , with red stockings , which displayed his poor little spindle-shanks ; he also wore a brilliant red cravat . He carried in his hand a long alpenstock , the sharp point of which he thrust into everything that he approached -- the flowerbeds , the garden benches , the trains of the ladies ’ dresses . In front of Winterbourne he paused , looking at him with a pair of bright , penetrating little eyes . “ Will you give me a lump of sugar ? ” he asked in a sharp , hard little voice -- a voice immature and yet , somehow , not young . Winterbourne glanced at the small table near him , on which his coffee service rested , and saw that several morsels of sugar remained . “ Yes , you may take one , ” he answered ; “ but I do n’t think sugar is good for little boys . ” This little boy stepped forward and carefully selected three of the coveted fragments , two of which he buried in the pocket of his knickerbockers , depositing the other as promptly in another place . He poked his alpenstock , lance-fashion , into Winterbourne ’s bench and tried to crack the lump of sugar with his teeth . “ Oh , blazes ; it ’s har-r-d ! ” he exclaimed , pronouncing the adjective in a peculiar manner . Winterbourne had immediately perceived that he might have the honor of claiming him as a fellow countryman . “ Take care you do n’t hurt your teeth , ” he said , paternally . “ I have n’t got any teeth to hurt . They have all come out . I have only got seven teeth . My mother counted them last night , and one came out right afterward . She said she ’d slap me if any more came out . I ca n’t help it . It ’s this old Europe . It ’s the climate that makes them come out . In America they did n’t come out . It ’s these hotels . ” Winterbourne was much amused . “ If you eat three lumps of sugar , your mother will certainly slap you , ” he said . “ She ’s got to give me some candy , then , ” rejoined his young interlocutor . “ I ca n’t get any candy here -- any American candy . American candy ’s the best candy . ” “ And are American little boys the best little boys ? ” asked Winterbourne . “ I do n’t know . I ’m an American boy , ” said the child . “ I see you are one of the best ! ” laughed Winterbourne . “ Are you an American man ? ” pursued this vivacious infant . And then , on Winterbourne ’s affirmative reply -- “ American men are the best , ” he declared . His companion thanked him for the compliment , and the child , who had now got astride of his alpenstock , stood looking about him , while he attacked a second lump of sugar . Winterbourne wondered if he himself had been like this in his infancy , for he had been brought to Europe at about this age . “ Here comes my sister ! ” cried the child in a moment . “ She ’s an American girl . ” Winterbourne looked along the path and saw a beautiful young lady advancing . “ American girls are the best girls , ” he said cheerfully to his young companion . “ My sister ai n’t the best ! ” the child declared . “ She ’s always blowing at me . ” “ I imagine that is your fault , not hers , ” said Winterbourne . The young lady meanwhile had drawn near . She was dressed in white muslin , with a hundred frills and flounces , and knots of pale-colored ribbon . She was bareheaded , but she balanced in her hand a large parasol , with a deep border of embroidery ; and she was strikingly , admirably pretty . “ How pretty they are ! ” thought Winterbourne , straightening himself in his seat , as if he were prepared to rise . The young lady paused in front of his bench , near the parapet of the garden , which overlooked the lake . The little boy had now converted his alpenstock into a vaulting pole , by the aid of which he was springing about in the gravel and kicking it up not a little . “ Randolph , ” said the young lady , “ what ARE you doing ? ” “ I ’m going up the Alps , ” replied Randolph . “ This is the way ! ” And he gave another little jump , scattering the pebbles about Winterbourne ’s ears . “ That ’s the way they come down , ” said Winterbourne . “ He ’s an American man ! ” cried Randolph , in his little hard voice . The young lady gave no heed to this announcement , but looked straight at her brother . “ Well , I guess you had better be quiet , ” she simply observed . It seemed to Winterbourne that he had been in a manner presented . He got up and stepped slowly toward the young girl , throwing away his cigarette . “ This little boy and I have made acquaintance , ” he said , with great civility . In Geneva , as he had been perfectly aware , a young man was not at liberty to speak to a young unmarried lady except under certain rarely occurring conditions ; but here at Vevey , what conditions could be better than these ? -- a pretty American girl coming and standing in front of you in a garden . This pretty American girl , however , on hearing Winterbourne ’s observation , simply glanced at him ; she then turned her head and looked over the parapet , at the lake and the opposite mountains . He wondered whether he had gone too far , but he decided that he must advance farther , rather than retreat . While he was thinking of something else to say , the young lady turned to the little boy again . “ I should like to know where you got that pole , ” she said . “ I bought it , ” responded Randolph . “ You do n’t mean to say you ’re going to take it to Italy ? ”